Nori rolls at home: ultimat...

Two things to warn you about before you start: (1) until you get really good, making a batch of nori rolls is going to take you a few hours, so do it on a weekend; (2) it's pretty much impossible to assemble the ingredients to make just one or two nori rolls; you're going to have enough to make five to seven, so do nori for a party or at least substantial company.

Part 1 is the rice, which is really the most important part of sushi. In fact, it is the rice which determines whether something is sushi or not, not the fish. Since it takes over an hour, you should start it before you start prepping the roll fillings.

• 2 cups sushi rice (such as Nishiki)
• 2 cups cold water
• 3-inch piece of konbu dried seaweed (optional)
• 1/2 cup rice vinegar
• 1 tablespoon sugar (plus more if vinegar is strong)
• 3/4 teaspoon salt
• Colander, heavy 3-qt pot or rice cooker, large baking dish or cookie sheet (at least 9" x 13"), mini-saucepan

First, you need to wash the rice in the colander until the water runs clear, and then let it drain for half an hour. While this is going, assemble the rice seasoning.

Mix the rice vinegar, sugar and salt in a butter warmer or other very small saucepan (if using "seasoned vinegar", omit the sugar). Put it on the stove, bring it to a boil, stir it a bunch, then let it cool.

Cook the rice using regular white rice cooking methods, including a rice cooker if you have one. Just be careful not to overcook. If using a pot, add the rice and cold water (and optional konbu) to a cold pot. Heat until it boils; remove the konbu and put on the lid for 5 minutes over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and cook for another 10 minutes. Turn off heat, let sit 5 minutes.

As soon as the rice is done, dump it into the pan or cookie sheet and spread it out into an even layer, fanning it to dissapate the steam. Add the rice seasoning in a slow stream, stirring the rice around the pan to coat it evenly and dissipate the heat. After all seasoning is added, spread the rice out again and fan it for a bit to cool it quickly. If you've done things right, the rice should be shiny.

Now you've got sushi rice, which is tasty in its own right. Further, it means you can make the easiest sushi -- inari! Just buy a packet of inari wrappers (sometimes labeled "fried tofu pockets"), and stuff each little envelope with sushi rice and a sprinkling of sesame seeds. Serve with soy sauce. Yum!

More tommorrow on making the actual rolls.

Note: this recipe can easily be doubled to make enough rice for 10 or more rolls: 4 cups rice, 4 cups cold water, 4-inch piece of konbu, 3/4 cup vinegar, 2 tbs sugar, 1.5 tsp salt.